🚗 Thailand Road Trip – Day 4: Jungle Roads, Power Cuts & A Slice of China
After soaking up the slow pace and lush surroundings of Pai (so much so that we extended our stay… again), we felt it was time to head further north. We wanted something even more remote, more green, more… off the map.
So naturally, we pointed to the furthest top corner of Thailand on the map and said: “Let’s go there!”
Enter: Ban Rak Thai — a tiny village perched on the Thai-Myanmar border, three hours from Pai on winding roads, and (as we soon found out) into the true wilderness.
Rain, Roads & Realisations
Our journey started out full of energy. But with non-stop rain, steep mountain roads, and no phone signal, the drive soon became less “scenic” and more “survival mode.”
By the time we got close to Ban Rak Thai, we were running low on petrol, and had no way to check maps or even send a text. Jungle hills stretched in all directions, and we suddenly realised: we are very much off-grid now.
Pictures below: The drive up before it got stormy!
Wrong Location & A Storm Alert
We arrived at Ban Rak Thai only to discover… our booked accommodation was actually 40 minutes back down the road we’d just risked our lives crawling up.
And then, as if the universe was having a giggle — our phones buzzed with a severe storm warning, warning of flash floods and landslides. We looked at the road beside us, which now resembled a fast-moving stream. Slightly unsettling, to say the least.
Oh, and I was fasting that day, so I was running on pure adrenaline (and perhaps a little grumpiness), hoping for food, Wi-Fi and a plan. So first things first we stopped for food… it wasn’t cheap!
The Power Goes Out… and So Does the Town
Just as we sat down for a quick meal to gather our thoughts and find Wi-Fi — boom — the power cut out across the whole village. That meant no lights, no internet, no card machines, and a rapidly disappearing sun.
Within minutes, Ban Rak Thai felt like a ghost town. Most guesthouses and homestays couldn’t check anyone in due to the blackout, and language barriers made things even trickier — we had no translation apps and no signal.
We quickly realised we’d have to stay the night — driving back was too dangerous in the rain and darkness. We wandered around, asking for a room (miming “sleep” and “bed” to confused but kind locals), until one lovely young woman from a nearby hotel pointed us to Lee Wine Resort — one of the only places with backup power.
Cash is King (Especially in a Blackout)
When we got there, we were incredibly grateful to hear they had one room left — two double beds, a warm shower, and working lights. Heaven.
And here’s where we got lucky: because of the power cut, none of the card machines were working — and they couldn’t accept credit or debit cards. Thankfully, we had enough cash on us to cover the 1,700 baht (£38.50) cost — which was more than we’d usually spend, but totally worth it under the circumstances. Lesson learned: always keep an emergency stash of cash in rural areas.
A Morning to Remember
After a long, wild day, we all slept hard — and woke up to the most beautiful mountain view we’ve ever seen.
Clouds drifted through the pine forests, mist clung to the hills, and everything felt peaceful, quiet, and still. The air was crisp and clean, and it felt like we’d stumbled upon a hidden world.
Ban Rak Thai has a strong Chinese influence — with lanterns, traditional tea houses, and buildings that look like they’re straight out of Yunnan. We explored the tiny town, wandered around the lake, and took it all in.
Although we arrived in wet season and the town felt sleepy, we could tell it’s a popular tourist hotspot in the dry season, with campsites, hotels, and tea cafes lining the hillsides.
Onwards to Pang Ung
With storm alerts still buzzing on our phones, we decided to keep moving — finally heading to our original destination: Pang Ung, a quieter, even more rural village further out from the main tourist track.
We were still a little frazzled, but so glad we got to see Ban Rak Thai, even if it didn’t do to plan, that’s the beauty of travelling after all! We all learn in these moments who has resilience, patience, language skills, logic and much more… these are the tests that make us realise how good we work as a team when things really do crumble around you!
🌿 Top Tips for Travelling Families Heading to Ban Rak Thai:
1. Bring cash — always!
Even without a storm, many rural places don’t take card. In a blackout, it’s cash or nothing.
2. Check weather and road conditions before you leave.
Especially in the rainy season — landslides and flooding can cause serious delays or hazards. Also, take sickness meds if you have a ticky belly when travelling… the roads are lethal and winding.
3. Fill up on fuel before heading up.
There are not any big petrol stations in the hills — we came way too close for comfort!
4. Download offline maps and translation apps.
When you lose signal (and you will), you’ll be glad you did.
5. Lee Wine Resort is a great backup plan.
A bit more pricey than budget stays, but safe, powered, and welcoming.
6. Expect higher prices than elsewhere.
With its unique setting and remote location, costs (especially food and accommodation) are noticeably higher than Chiang Mai or Pai.
Final Thoughts
Day 4 reminded us that the adventure doesn’t always lie in the destination — sometimes, it’s in the detour. The unexpected power cuts, storm alerts, and scramble for a bed turned into a story we’ll never forget.
Family travel isn’t just sunshine and scenic views — it’s adapting, staying calm under pressure, and remembering that every challenge becomes part of the story.
Ban Rak Thai, you surprised us — but in the best way.
